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Cuba
SpunOut.ie postcards: There's something about Cuba.
Whether you’re a devout leftist, a cigar lover, a sun-worshipper, a music buff or an obsessive American President this enigmatic Caribbean island won’t fail to fascinate.
What drew me in was President Castro’s failing health. Cuba is a time warp, a socialist haven only 70 miles from the coast of Florida. Unsurprisingly during the frenzied 1950s, the Americans were horrified to have Communism gain a foothold in their own back yard and retaliated with a trade embargo and a ban on Americans visiting the island. Despite the end of the Cold War and a total shift in world politics the Americans have clung to that archaic policy towards Cuba.
Against all the odds the revolucion survived. Food is limited, as are consumer goods and most cars are from the 50s, held together by little more than chewing gum and prayer (of course, the classic Cadillacs, Chevrolets and Buicks have become a symbol of Cuban tourism). Yet despite all its difficulties the Cubans remain loyal to socialism. However, it’s hard to see the current system surviving when the charismatic hero that is Fidel Castro finally passes away. So, I wanted to get there before that shift happens.
Nothing could have prepared me for how utterly enthralled I was to become. Within two days of arriving I was hopelessly in love with Cuba, its lifestyle, its people, its music, its cocktails. Although the fume and bustle of Havana was a shock to the senses, there was incredible vibrancy and thirst for life on every street corner. The streets are always crowded, there’s live music everywhere and everyone seems to be friends with everyone else.
Our next stop was the beach district of Varadero, the archetypal white sand, clear seas destination. We stayed five minutes from the beach and one night after a few mojitos (the national rum-based cocktail) we walked home under moonlight in the surf of the Caribbean, which is well worth the cliché! However, Varadero is very much a tourist district and allows for little interaction with locals. While it was a nice break, it didn’t have the dynamism of our other stops. It is also representative of what is, in my opinion, the single greatest flaw in Cuban socialism. Tourists are given absolute priority over Cubans, to the point that in certain parts of Varadero, Cubans will be told by authorities to leave their own beaches.
I was uncomfortable with this apartheid-like situation so I didn’t overly lament leaving Varadero. Particularly given that the medieval city of Trinidad, our next port of call, was my favourite part of the entire trip. Trinidad is a UNESCO-protected heritage site with cobbled streets, terra-cotta roofs and old stately buildings. There we shopped in fabulous street markets, went horse riding in the local countryside and spent evenings in the legendary ‘Casa de la Musica’, a three-tiered open-aired social hub. There were top quality bands every night and Cubans and tourists alike flocked to salsa or just to talk, drink and enjoy the atmosphere. The Cuban nightlife was summed up on our first night when it began to rain and thunder rumbled. Everyone crowded into a tiny portico and the band straight away set up their instruments and continued to play until the rain had stopped.
After Trinidad we continued to wind our way up the island, bound for Baracoa, a sleepy seaside town surrounded by mountains. En route, I was reminded of the beauty of the Cuban national ethos: to go with the flow, to sort things out and to make the best of any situation. We arrived at the bus station to find that all seats were sold out. Rather than turning us away, the station officials said we could go on the bus but that we wouldn’t have any seats until the first stop. Happily in breach of about 15 EU regulations we made makeshift seats out of a coffee machine and a sink and set off.
Santiago de Cuba was our last stop before heading back to Havana. Scene of Castro’s original 1953 revolution attempt, it’s slightly quieter than Havana but with no less life and excitement. On our first night there, a young Cuban fell into step with us. We were tired after our journey and were ready to eat in the first place we saw but he insisted that he knew the best place to eat in Santiago. We tagged along and he brought us to an open-air, candlelit rooftop restaurant with a stunning view of the city. While Cuba has a reputation for hustlers or jinteros there are times when local knowledge is an absolute blessing!
Eventually it was time to head back to Havana on a freezing overnight train with more cockroaches than people. The second time around, Havana was much easier to appreciate, having adjusted to the climate and society. We stayed across the road from the legendary Hotel Nacional, where such names as Churchill, Nat King Cole and Ernest Hemingway. Having operated on something of a budget up until then we had one meal in the hotel’s classiest restaurant.
After a month I was absolutely hooked on Cuba and broken-hearted at the thought of leaving. Arriving home, laden with rum, cigars and memories I still wasn’t sure what exactly was so fascinating about Cuba, but I plan on going back to try and find out.
By: Niamh Ni Mhaoileoin
